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How To Repaint A Blowmold


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32 replies to this topic

#1 ttcd

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:15 AM

Hi I am looking on how to repaint a blow mold. My son want to try and repaint one. Do you have to strip the paint off first?
Than what kind of paint do you use to repaint it and how do you do that with getting every detail on it and not messing upm the other parts that you have already painted.

Hopefully if I find some information on it he could start it and maybe get it done in time for christmas.

Edited by ttcd, 27 August 2011 - 04:47 AM.


#2 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:42 AM

Yes if you are planning on doing a repaint, stripping is very important! You want to get it completley off. I use a stripper called Jasco it's available at Lowes. It is a heavey duty stripper that is not intended for plastic, however in the hundreds of molds that I have redone, never had an issue with it. I paint it on, let it sit and scrub off, some molds come off in seconds. Union molds it comes off the second the stripper hits it, Empire however takes some time. GF also falls right off. After their stripped I go over them with dishsoap and a magic eraser to get off any residue. Once clean and dry your ready to go. I usually start with the larger areas taping off and panting using the blue painters tape. For detail work or areas that have been freshly painted I use clay, Crayola model magic, it is great stuff to use can be used over a few times. I can paint an entire mold in one day without waiting for paint to cure this way. Take your time spraying start spraying beside the mold not directly on it this way you don't get a blotchy look. If your not sure at first illuminate the mold while your painting, as a little paint goes a long way! I use a lot of Krylon paints their Fusion line is great to work with. But pretty much any brand will work. I use Rustoleum american accents line on most of my Easter repaints since they have the colors I like.Hope that helps any other questions feel free!

#3 ttcd

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:48 AM

Yes if you are planning on doing a repaint, stripping is very important! You want to get it completley off. I use a stripper called Jasco it's available at Lowes. It is a heavey duty stripper that is not intended for plastic, however in the hundreds of molds that I have redone, never had an issue with it. I paint it on, let it sit and scrub off, some molds come off in seconds. Union molds it comes off the second the stripper hits it, Empire however takes some time. GF also falls right off. After their stripped I go over them with dishsoap and a magic eraser to get off any residue. Once clean and dry your ready to go. I usually start with the larger areas taping off and panting using the blue painters tape. For detail work or areas that have been freshly painted I use clay, Crayola model magic, it is great stuff to use can be used over a few times. I can paint an entire mold in one day without waiting for paint to cure this way. Take your time spraying start spraying beside the mold not directly on it this way you don't get a blotchy look. If your not sure at first illuminate the mold while your painting, as a little paint goes a long way! I use a lot of Krylon paints their Fusion line is great to work with. But pretty much any brand will work. I use Rustoleum american accents line on most of my Easter repaints since they have the colors I like.Hope that helps any other questions feel free!


So the paint is like a spray paint?

And yes just one more do you know how to fix holes in a mold?

And yes that did help a lot.

#4 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:51 AM


So the paint is like a spray paint?

And yes just one more do you know how to fix holes in a mold?

And yes that did help a lot.


Yes just regular spray paint. Check out my witch repaint, she is all done in Krylon fusion. Yes I can fix holes it all depends on what kind of hole your fixing. I try to do as much from inside the mold. What kind of hole do you need to repair?

#5 ttcd

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:54 AM


Yes just regular spray paint. Check out my witch repaint, she is all done in Krylon fusion. Yes I can fix holes it all depends on what kind of hole your fixing. I try to do as much from inside the mold. What kind of hole do you need to repair?


I saw the witch repaint and it looks amazing. I have a lot of holes to fix but the one I am the most interested in fixing is the hole in the arm of my mechanical santa. I would upload a picture of it but I always have trouble with that.

#6 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 05:01 AM


I saw the witch repaint and it looks amazing. I have a lot of holes to fix but the one I am the most interested in fixing is the hole in the arm of my mechanical santa. I would upload a picture of it but I always have trouble with that.


If it's a complete hole without the piece, what I would do is cut either a piece of plastic or my favorite, piece of milk jug, cut to fit hot glue it on the inside of the mold then after it dries use plastic epoxy on top of that to kinda fill in the area to bring it level, let it dry then paint it and usually you can hardly tell it was repaired.

#7 ttcd

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 05:05 AM


If it's a complete hole without the piece, what I would do is cut either a piece of plastic or my favorite, piece of milk jug, cut to fit hot glue it on the inside of the mold then after it dries use plastic epoxy on top of that to kinda fill in the area to bring it level, let it dry then paint it and usually you can hardly tell it was repaired.


Ok thanks for all the help. Just one more question is the is paint stripper http://www.lowes.com...asco&facetInfo=....And where do you get the krylon fusion paint?
Once again thanks for all the help.

#8 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 02:58 AM

That is it! I go through gallons of it! The Fusion is sold at Walmart, and I think True Value hardware stores. You don't have to use the Fusion regular Krylon is fine too!

#9 ttcd

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 04:19 AM

That is it! I go through gallons of it! The Fusion is sold at Walmart, and I think True Value hardware stores. You don't have to use the Fusion regular Krylon is fine too!


I got this paint remover from wal mart called "Goof Off" "The Miracle Remover" it says damages many plastics. But i decided to get it and try it because it was only $3.00. I tried it around the hole in the back where the light plate goes to see if it would damage it in any kind of way but it didnt so than my son moved on to removing all of the paint but the easiest way to get it off is to putt some on a paper towel and than wipe the paper towel over the paint. It doesnt come off that good or as easily as I think it should.

How easy does the Jasco come off?

#10 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:10 PM


I got this paint remover from wal mart called "Goof Off" "The Miracle Remover" it says damages many plastics. But i decided to get it and try it because it was only $3.00. I tried it around the hole in the back where the light plate goes to see if it would damage it in any kind of way but it didnt so than my son moved on to removing all of the paint but the easiest way to get it off is to putt some on a paper towel and than wipe the paper towel over the paint. It doesnt come off that good or as easily as I think it should.

How easy does the Jasco come off?


The Jasco takes it right off, I pour a little bit in a cup, and I get cheap paint brushes from the dollat store and brush it on, within minutes it starts lifting the paint, I then brush it around with the paint brush then go over it with a scrub brush, then I rinse it off with water, some molds you have to do this twice. They do sell a smaller can of Jasko if you want to try that.

#11 DKRGoods

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 04:11 PM

Just a little tip. Do small sections at a time. Its easier and safer. I use Citristrip and got it at Home Depot. I like it because it lets me do it in my cellar and my wife loves the smell.

I also use Krylon Fusion (Home Depot) and for the detail stuff I use Testors model paint with a foam brush and dab it on. Best tip ever. Light it up if you can. After I paint a light coat I stick a light in to see how many more light coats I need. After all we do want the light to show through so we can admire our artistic abilities :-)

Some people on here repaint with airbrushes. Maybe in the future for me. From my readings on this awesome forum airbrushes give you the ability to be creative and very little masking required. I like the not masking plus the clay idea is awesome.

There is a lot of great information on how to repaint and repair on this forum. I have tried a lot and all have worked great.

Good luck and have fun......

#12 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 12:32 AM

Just a little tip. Do small sections at a time. Its easier and safer. I use Citristrip and got it at Home Depot. I like it because it lets me do it in my cellar and my wife loves the smell.

I also use Krylon Fusion (Home Depot) and for the detail stuff I use Testors model paint with a foam brush and dab it on. Best tip ever. Light it up if you can. After I paint a light coat I stick a light in to see how many more light coats I need. After all we do want the light to show through so we can admire our artistic abilities :-)

Some people on here repaint with airbrushes. Maybe in the future for me. From my readings on this awesome forum airbrushes give you the ability to be creative and very little masking required. I like the not masking plus the clay idea is awesome.

There is a lot of great information on how to repaint and repair on this forum. I have tried a lot and all have worked great.

Good luck and have fun......


You are right, forgot to mention that, I do try to take it a section at a time while stripping. Never tried any brush painting on them. And your right Air brushing is a lot of fun and great for smaller detail work. I just hate the prep and clean up with it. I think you said it best! Have fun!

#13 Guest_Mr. Griswold_*

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 04:30 AM

Hey this info is helping me as well thanks for the thread TTCD! I am bringing this sad Poloron back to life. I have done a few restorations in the past but nothing on this scale. AFNUT and DKRGoods I appreciate all the time you took to write in your insight on these projects. Heres a fun pic for you :)

Posted Image

#14 Elaine F

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 01:32 PM


... but the easiest way to get it off is to putt some on a paper towel and than wipe the paper towel over the paint. It doesnt come off that good or as easily as I think it should.


The best way to use a remover/stripper is to apply with a brush and let it sit for a few minutes. You need a nice thick coat. Wiping it on with a paper towel will make the coat too thin, and it won't get into grooves and recesses as well. A few minutes after you brush it on, you can usually see the paint bubbling and/or lifting off of the plastic.

So, there's my 2 cents! ;)
Posted Image
My motto is that if it doesn't move, put lights on it. If it does move, sneak up behind it and put lights on it anyways.
(Motto borrowed from Bob Van Streader, cuz it just made me laugh!)

My stained glass shop: http://beyond-the-looking-glass.com

#15 DVC_Chris

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 04:34 PM

I know I tried to paint a TPI Ice Coke Bear that I bought... it came out pretty nicely until I lit it up. I might try stripping it again and repainting it next year.

#16 Elaine F

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 05:18 PM

I know I tried to paint a TPI Ice Coke Bear that I bought... it came out pretty nicely until I lit it up. I might try stripping it again and repainting it next year.

Been there, done that. I think there are three tricks to getting a good paint job.

1. Make sure the blow mold is clean, clean, clean. No residue from the stripper, no dirt or dust, no soap scum.
2. Paint it while it's illuminated. Takes away the guesswork.
3. Light coats. You can always go back and add more, but you can't remove drips when you put on too much.

Well, there's 2 more cents! :)
Posted Image
My motto is that if it doesn't move, put lights on it. If it does move, sneak up behind it and put lights on it anyways.
(Motto borrowed from Bob Van Streader, cuz it just made me laugh!)

My stained glass shop: http://beyond-the-looking-glass.com

#17 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:22 PM

Hey this info is helping me as well thanks for the thread TTCD! I am bringing this sad Poloron back to life. I have done a few restorations in the past but nothing on this scale. AFNUT and DKRGoods I appreciate all the time you took to write in your insight on these projects. Heres a fun pic for you :)

Posted Image

I redid that one for a friend last summer, he turned out nice, hers didn't have the breakage but the paint was as bad, he looked like new again, I love these old Poloron molds! You have your work cut out for you, but he will be good as new when your done! Can't wait to see it!

#18 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:26 PM

Been there, done that. I think there are three tricks to getting a good paint job.

1. Make sure the blow mold is clean, clean, clean. No residue from the stripper, no dirt or dust, no soap scum.
2. Paint it while it's illuminated. Takes away the guesswork.
3. Light coats. You can always go back and add more, but you can't remove drips when you put on too much.

Well, there's 2 more cents! :)


Your two cents are worth more than that! Thats exactly right, another thing for folks having trouble with drips, just keep the paint spraying going lightly, but if your worried about it dripping, have a hair dryer handy. I sometimes will have a paint can in one hand a hair dryer in the other, this not only assure no drips, it dries the paint immediately so there is no waiting or worrying when removing the tape or clay.

#19 Guest_A.F.NUT_*

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:27 PM

I know I tried to paint a TPI Ice Coke Bear that I bought... it came out pretty nicely until I lit it up. I might try stripping it again and repainting it next year.


That's one of the nice things about it, if you screw up strip it and try again.

#20 ChrisL1976

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 03:43 PM

TTCD, the post below is a great step by step post about stripping and refinishing a blow mold. Its written by one of the best blow mold re-finishers in the country, Carrie Sansing.

http://holidayuniver...pic,1014.0.html
Chris

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