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  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.

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About my display

Found 33 results

  1. Have 8 boxes of universal light stakes, fits c7 & c9 bulbs. Purchased these 3 years ago in bulk (30 boxes) 25 per box 8 boxes. Paid $6.50 per box, selling for 35.00 for all eight including shipping in lower 48 priority mail shipping.. NO splittling all 8 or nothing.
  2. Christmas_House_2017.mp4

    From the album Aabeck's album

    My house display for 2017 Christmas. The outside lights and living room window lights are controlled by an Allen Bradley SLC5/04 PLC. The door wreath is controlled by a Siemens S2-200 PLC, with the power to it controlled by the living room SLC5/04. Most of the light strings have been cut into 10 bulb sections to run on 24 volts DC provided by separate power supplies. The flickering candles in the kitchen window are 4 volt bulbs wired to a TTL transistor logic card, and each of the 7 is controlled with it's own subroutine. TO get 4 volts I have a 5 volt power supply run through a potentiometer to reduce the voltage to 3.7 volts - it is easier on the bulbs and makes them a little dimmer than full brightness so they appear more like candles. The kitchen window is controlled by a SLC5/03 PLC, and another SLC5/03 controls the tree that I put out in the side yard this year. The PLC's are synced with messaging by a home control SLC5/05 in my home office, through NET-ENI's. A network COM port on the tree PLC is messaged to through a data-subscriber on the HMI. All features (along with the home controls, monitoring and alarms) are controllable and adjustable by a computer and a Windows tablet both running AdvancedHMI.
  3. I was searching on the ebay for other things and saw this Sale. Another display going dark, in the Bonita, California area. Hopefully someone in the area can grab this up and carry on the tradition. Descriptions says you need a 25ft box truck!
  4. I am having some issues with a 60in light up wreath. 7/8 of the thing lights up but half of 1 section is completely out. I have tried replacing bulbs, used the Christmas light tester tool but I am stuck. Today I found what I think is where it is losing power or transfer of power to the next bulb Anybody have any idea what type of bum set up this is? Or how to fix it? I am pretty sure this is where the lights stop from bulb to bulb. I have never seen bulbs like this before and have tried everything except splicing the wires again. How can I fix this so I can use this wreath again?The bulb before this has the same housing and works fine.
  5. I ordered 2 sets of 1k rice lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07575T8R1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=wwwwarriorsof-20 I plan on decorating a tree outside my house but I think it will be a challenge. Any tips on decorating outside tree with 73ft of lights.
  6. Hi, I am a relative newbie especially compared to many of you. I have been adding to my decorations and adding light-o-rama controllers for the last few years. I now have arches over my driveway, a mega tree, several mini trees and candy canes along the sidewalk. This year I am adding a star to the mega tree and framing every window across the front of the house with lights. I am looking to tap into your wisdom for help / guidance for the windows. My current plan is to use the smallest diameter pvc pipe and elbows to create a frame for each window. I plan to attach a flexible strap / belt to the top of each frame and use the window (double hung) to lock the frame in place. I am definitely open to your thoughts on this plan but am really looking for help on the lights. Would you recommend rope lights or standard LED's strings. What size bulbs, spacing, etc.? I would like to use the lighter gauge light string wire (without lights) as the power lead vs. an extension cord. Is this as simple as buying the same type of wire and soldering it together? I really appreciate any advice you can provide. I have learned a lot over the last few years via the forum as well as trial and error, leveraging others experience definitely saves time and money both of which are at a premium!!
  7. Newbie Help

    Hello everyone! I can't believe the wealth of knowledge that roams these digital halls! I'm hoping you all can help me out with my roof ridge lighting layout. I have clips for this, but what I don't understand, and haven't been able to find anywhere online, is how people get a single row of lights along all of the ridges. In my picture I have highlight all of the second story roof with red, and the yellow shows the first story ridges. My thought is to start with the end of my string and the far left corner of the house, but I can't figure out how to run the lights out the other ridge toward the front of the house, and connect up to the long continuous ridge that goes the rest of the way across the house. Any thought would be extremely appreciated. Also, what do you do with any excess light / cord at the end of the ridge run? Thanks! and Happy 76 days till Christmas!!!!!
  8. We are having a large light sale from Pilot Mountain Christmas. We have both new and used LED and Incandescent lights of all kinds. We are selling by appointment only so if you are interested in checking out what we have call us at 336-351-2487 and leave a message with your Name and a date and time that you want to come. The address is 4236 NC 268 HWY East in Pilot Mountain, NC 27041. See pictures on our Face Book Page. https://www.facebook.com/pilot.m.christmas
  9. 2016 Display - 30k lights

    I'm 19 and have been doing this for about 10 years so far, I've came a long way with my display in just the past few years even. Here are some highlight pics of this year and a link to the website and Facebook page: http://eurekamochristmaslights.weebly.com/ https://www.facebook.com/ForestRunLights/ I'm open to any suggestions-good or bad for next year, thanks for looking!
  10. I just ran out of female vampire plugs. Is there any places that you have bought them local? If not, any idea who has FAST shipping? I'm in FL
  11. I purchased 12x8' net lights at the end of season last year they are still in the boxes and will come out soon. My question is what is the best idea to stretch the net lights from the tangled mess in the box when they packaged them. Thanks
  12. I have a raised ranch and am looking to place my icicle light via metal hooks under the gutters via the wood soffit. My question is what is a good way to keep the icicle lights from drooping in between each other? Thanks
  13. My third completed project is the North Pole Lights, with 12v LEDs following the cane stripes and a 2W G4 LED to light the Polycarbonate globe.Based on what I'd learned in my 2 previous projects, together with a few online resources and available raw materials, this was a bit more of a challenge. The concrete bases for the North Poles were identical to the bases of my first Candy Cane project, the only difference being that a 75mm 3" SV BSP Female Adapter (Weld Fit type) was used instead of the 50mm type.I'm planning that these 3 lights will lead from my entrance gate to the front door - I may have to make a few more, but will see what the spacing is like when I set it all up in November.For this project I used 75mm white PVC pipe and relevant BSP PVC fittings, and the same concrete base process as my first project. The 12v LED strips were sourced from a local online store and will be powered by a dedicated 12v 10A power supply, which will also supply some other 12v projects being done.The supply list for these North Pole Lights was as follows: 3m of 75mm PVC plumbing pipe (for the pole sections - mine were each 900mm in length; how can have any length you choose though) 3x 75mm PVC Single Socket fittings (solvent weld fit on one end and rubber ring push fit on the other - see pics) 3x 6" polycarbonate globe fittings (you can also use the 8" fittings if you want a larger globe on the pole top) 3x light fittings that will fit the rubber ring push-fit end of the PVC single socket fitting (3" inset LED lights and some garden-spike lights could also fit) 3x 75mm 3" SV BSP Female Adapter Weld Fit type - for the concrete base stands section Jigsaw/hacksaw to cut the PVC pipe Sandpaper - 300 grit/fine Rustoleum Red, White and Clear spray paint for plastic (the kind that doesn't need plastic primer) Blue painter's tape (not masking tape as it's not flexible enough) Clear silicone sealant The supply list for the concrete base is identical to my smaller candy cane bases, as follows: 3x suitable shaped plastic bowls for the mold - I used a cheap clear plastic 2.5 liter bowls (base diameter of about 22cm's) that had a nice double outer ridge pattern - you can use any type/pattern though Concrete mix with 6mm-9mm stone - I used 6mm and found it ideal Styrofoam for the stand inner (temporary) Silicone to hold the PVC stand piece to the bowl mold (any tubed silicone will do, colour does not matter) 4mm-6mm wire for the concrete reinforcement ring an offcut length of thinnish wooden dowel (6mm-8mm), for tamping the concrete in the mold to get a smooth finish all round - although you could use a pencil, chopstick, etc Concrete/cement primer Polyurethane paint (water based is easier) for the finish Paint brush(es) 4x round rubber stick-on feet for the bottom of the base - I used ones that are 3cm diameter and 5mm thick The concrete base - I suggest starting with the bases first, as they have to dry for 2-3 days then cure for 20-odd days before you can prime/paint/finish them. Prepare your molds by washing with warm soapy water - add a little dish-washing liquid to warm water and wash the inside of the bowl thoroughly - dry with a micro-fibre cloth and place on a good flat surface. Using the non-threaded side of the 75mm 3" SV BSP Female Adapter as a guide, cut 3 "plugs" from a styrofoam block, so that they fit very snuggly into each of the smooth ends of the 75mm adapters. Make sure there is no styrofoam protruding beyond the top plastic section of the adapter - this side will be glued with the silicone to the bowl molds, leaving a clear/clean 75mm socket section once removed from the concrete mold - the pole section will then slide into this later when assembling. Next find the absolute center of the bowl mold and using the silicone, glue the styrofoam-plugged end of the adapter to the bottom of the bowl - use a good blob of silicone in the center of the styrofoam, which seems enough to stick it properly when pressed down. As the bowl is effectively an inverted mold, once the concrete is poured, set, removed from the mold and inverted, the adapter section will be encased in concrete; once when removed from the bowl the styrofoam plug can then be easily removed, leaving a nice clean 75mm pipe slot fitting to hold the main candy cane pole. You will have to repeat this 3 times for the 3 poles. Leave the silicone to dry overnight, so the adapter/styrofoam is stuck properly to the bowl. (the silicone/styrofoam will easily be removed later) While waiting for the silicone to dry, you can make up the 3 concrete reinforcement rings (1 for each base) using the 4/6mm wire; Cut enough wire so that you can make a circle from the wire length that will sit equidistant from the middle PVC adapter and the sides of the bowl - this will assist with strengthening the concrete base - I made 180 degree loops at each end and coupled them together - think of locking your 2 forefingers together in a link fashion You're now ready to mix and pour the concrete mix - I won't go into the mix ratios, etc - there are plenty of guides out there on the web - I used a higher-strength mix just to be safe. Alternatively use Quick Crete or similar if available in your country. I suggest preparing enough concrete mix to complete the 3 molds you need to fill (personal choice); you can however mix up each separately if you wish. With each of the plastic bowl molds on a sturdy flat/level surface, start pouring the concrete carefully into the mold, until the bowl is approx. half full form the top - this is where you will add the reinforcement wire ring - I suggest tamping out all of the air-pockets at this stage, add the wire ring then continue adding the concrete until it reaches the top of the bowl lip. Again carefully tamp out as much air as possible; TIP: one reason I bought the clear plastic bowl mold was so that I could see if there were any air bubbles left on the bowl sides - use the dowel stick or pencil to tamp out all these air bubbles - the smoother the finish of the concrete against the plastic the easier it is to finish it off later! Cover the filled molds with plastic sheet to minimise quick evaporation, and leave for 2-3 days - I misted the molds with a bottle water spray every 6-12 hours or so to ensure the concrete set correctly. After 2-3 days you should be able to remove the set concrete from the molds - I suggest using a scrap piece of plywood/MDF to make this process easier - place the board over the top of the bowl and hold tightly together, then flip the bowl over and the concrete based should literally drop out onto the board - Important: try not to touch the edges of the concrete base at this stage as they may crumble/crack - if you need to handle/move the freshly formed base, use your fingers/hands with the smooth top section of the concrete - I placed my bases on an upturned bowl to allow full curing for 20-odd days. Once cured (completely dry), carefully drill a 8mm-10mm hole through the center of the base - this let's out any water that may get in whilst in use...and is also used to route the wiring. It's now time to smooth the edges off around the bottom base, prime and paint - always follow the paint manufacturer's instructions for drying times, re-coat times, etc. I did 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of red polyurethane paint for the final finish. Once the paint has properly dried, 2-3 days, finish off the concrete base stands by placing the 4 or more round rubber stick-on feet underneath the base at quarter intervals - these also make it easier to lift the base when moving it around and prevent chipping of the base bottom/sides! And now the North Poles: Cut the 75mm PVC pipe into 3x 900mm lengths (you can use any length you wish though) Lightly sand the outer PVC pipe sections to remove burrs, bumps and the like. Wash all sections with soapy warm water to remove the dirt. Dry with a micro-fiber cloth and let dry out thoroughly before painting. TIP: use latex gloves from this point onward to keep the white PVC clean. Dry fit the Single Socket to the pipe lengths to ensure they fit and are tight - there is no need to glue these together as the tight fit will not allow water to penetrate. Once you're happy with the dry fitting, remove the Single Socket fittings - it's time to mark the candy stripes with the painter's tape - I used a 45 degree angle for the pole stripes. Also tape off the main pole end, approx, 1" - this will allow the PVC pipe to slide into the concrete base section with ease; if you paint this section it will probably not fit properly and you'll end up having to sand it back... Once wrapped, spray the red paint, thin coats, 2-3 re-coats depending on your spray paint coverage; remove the painter's tape about 10-15 minutes after the final spray coat. Once the red is thoroughly dry, mask off the red painted section with painter's tape, then spray the the white using 2-3 thin coats; remove the painter's tape about 10-15 minutes after the final spray coat. You can skip this step if you're happy with the raw matt white PVC plastic finish - I wanted a glossy finish, so decided to paint the white too! Some people spray the whole cane white, then do the red - although my process is more finicky and time-consuming, it uses less paint and the final finish is great. Once the white is thoroughly dry, spray with the final clear coat - 1-2 thin coats. Allow to dry for 2-3 days. To make the top light fittings: Carefully remove the rubber ring end cover - this should pop-off rather easily - remove the rubber ring; this will be used later when re-fitting. Spray paint the main body of the Single Socket either red or white and let it dry thoroughly - I did mine red TIP: mask off the section that the push-on cover goes onto - makes it easier to pop-on and pop-off. I spay painted the pop-off cover white to match the polycarbonate globe fitting - these will be joined together eventually. Also let it dry thoroughly. The polycarbonate globe fittings had scew-on threads, which I needed to remove - this was done with a Dremel cutter - see pictures - I sanded smooth the base to ensure it would fit to the pop-off white cover. Using a decent glue suitable for plastic/poly, glue the pop-off white cover to the polycarbonate fitting - see pictures. Let dry. I had a new unused set of 5 halogen 12v garden spike lights that I found in the garage, and decided to use these for the pole lights - the body of the spike lights fitted perfectly into the 75mm Single Socket end, where the pop-off white cover, rubber ring and poly globe could be pushed together to create a water tight seal - it's also easy to pop-off the cover to change the bulb when needed - the beauty of the garden lights was that they also come with color filters, so I can add those easily if I want different colour top lights at any stage. The halogen globes were changed to White G4 2W 12v LEDs. The feeder wire from the light fitting was long enough to reach the base of the main pole, so hooking up the power was also easy. Push the top light section, main pole and base together and test that the light works properly. Now all you need to do is hook up the wiring to the power source when setting up - I'll be stringing these in parallel along my pathway. To fit the LED red/white stripes I used lengths of self-stick red and white weatherproof LED strips, powered by 12v (purchased a separate 12v 10A transformer as it will power some other of my decorations ) It's as simple as measuring the length of LED strip you need and cut to length - use a piece of spare nylon line to get the wrapped length accurate. TIP: remember to check your specific LED strip to see where the standard cut marks are. Starting from the top of the pole just under the start of the top socket line, stick the non-connection end of the LED strip and continue sticking the strips around the center of each coloured paint stripe on the pole, ending about 1" from the bottom of the pole. Do this carefully as the self-stick can pull the spray paint off if you're not careful. I drilled 2 holes approx. the width of the LED strip (4mm), about 1" from the bottom mark after the pole is slotted into the concrete base, in the center of each of the red and white coloured stripes. Feed the connecting ends of the LED strip through the drilled holes and connect together. Depending how you connect your LED's will depend on how you route the power - I'll be running the 12v power into the base of the pole and connect up using push connectors - this makes it much easy to connect, remove and store. Here's some pictures of the process, with the final LED strips being fitted: If you need more pictures or information on the steps let me know.You can make these as big/small/short/tall as you want - I've seen some with larger top lights and wider diameter PVC - the trick is finding a suitable light fitting!My next thread will my scratch-built collapsible 8' Solar LED Medi-Tree with Portable Hole...
  14. Hello everyone. I hope people still check in. I noticed there has not been a post here since 2010! I've been decorating for 25 years now and am finally going to put my lights to music......Hopefully. I hope I can get some help from my fellow New Hampshirites.
  15. Massive Antique Snowflakes for sale!

    Snowflakes! Snowflakes! Snowflakes! I am selling a true DIY repair project for the Christmas handyman in all of you. I have 12 rather large antique snowflakes that are nearly 5 feet tall and are in need of repair and a good home. I picked them up from a picker in the Columbus area last summer who got them from the city of Columbus. Apparently these were build specifically for the city back in the 40s/50s and were place on the sides of some of the city buildings. They have seen better days, but are most certainly salvageable. My wife thought I was nuts when I got them, and I guess this post proves her right. But it was a too good a deal to pass up, and quite honestly, I didn't want to see them end up as scrap. But a year later, I realize that I do not have the time nor skill to get these things back to display-level quality. I'd like to get $20 each, but if you want them all 12 I'd let them go for $200. Pick up only from 44133. Thanks!
  16. New to Columbus

    Hi all, I Hope the lighting season is going well for all! I wanted to introduce myself to everyone in the Ohio forums. My name is Tucker Rubino. I currently have a display in Scottsdale, AZ but will be moving it to Columbus over the next couple of years. I am looking for some displays to visit across central Ohio, I saw some of the older posts but wanted to check who was still up and running. Looking forward to meeting everyone! Tucker www.rubinochristmas.com
  17. My whole display is static lights and airblowns, but this is the first year that I'll be really going all out as I've basically doubled my lights over the last year. Now, what I'm wondering is, is it safe (wattage-wise, for my lights themselves, and for my breakers) to connect LEDs to mini light strands? Or should I keep them entirely separate? I've connected a few strands of icicle mini-lights to my LED c9s last year without even thinking about it but now I'm wondering whether that can have any ill effects, especially if I have lots of things connected to one outlet, or LEDs on both sides of a string of mini lights? Is this going to mess with the wattage? What I would LIKE to do is run an extension cord down from my roof outlet, and connect mini-lights to it to brighten my front parking area. And at the END of that strand, I would like to start attaching (at least 10) strings of LEDs to wrap around the lilac trees about 20 feet from the front of my house. I THINK this is the best course of action, as the LEDs will still take only the power they need as they are on the end, right? If this is a bad idea, I will likely just scrap the idea of minis and use an extra-long extension cord and only do the LEDs on the trees. Is this bad? Should I not do that? I'm looking to keep my energy costs low (thus using almost all LEDs), am I going to be wasting energy this way, because the minis are sucking extra power through the strings of LEDs? Will I bust my LEDs by taking extra power through them to light the minis? Thanks for any advice!
  18. The Florida Mini 2012 version is going to be near Jacksonville in Atlantic Beach on Saturday, April 28th. The time is tentative, but probably around 9 am to 3 pm. It will be in an air conditioned club house. This is our annual gathering of Christmas Decorators. The Mini is open to all for all over the USA. You may be a Newbie or an old timer. Lee will be hosting this year. We will probably have a breakfast snack, drinks, lunch, dessert, and snacks. More info on food to come. The cost will be $15 per person to cover food cost and expenses. We will have an LOR interactive sharing session where you can get your questions answered. There will also be a Show and Tell for you to bring something you may what to share with the group. The rest is up to you. If you are interested in sharing let us know on here or PM me. I'm very excited to get together again with all you crazy people. Since it is in Northern Florida I expect to see some "Out of Towners." Michael Beason
  19. Hey folks! The holiday parties got someone a little too cheerful and tomorrow that cheer is spreading to you ! Now through January 15th, 2012 we are slashing our already ridiculously low prices by 15%! Be sure to check out store.lightsmusicmagic.com to see the eggnog filled deals available to you! Oh, and we're offering free shipping on all orders over $100! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
  20. Lights For Mini Trees

    I am trying to decide on which lights to put on mini trees for the display next year. I have 6 mini trees that I ordered from 3G Lighting Creations. Based on what everyone has used on their mini trees, which do you prefer to use, the 5mm or the M5/M6? Any suggestions will help.
  21. Lights Broke- Is This A Good Fix?

    I have a window frame that fell out over night last night and when I went to check things this AM- it had fallen out of the window (need to put shims in!).... when I put it back and plugged it in- half of the lights were out.. then I realized that two of the lighting outlets (the place the bulb fits into) had disappeared...obviously in my grass. I "fixed" it by electical taping the wires together to complete the circuit to get me through the night... everything looks fine. Question is- IS THIS SAFE? Am I ok with this fix? Or do I need to replace the strand?
  22. His email was macswebb@live.com and was selling everything for $300. I reached my limit for the year per my wife. I estimated $5 a strand or less worth checking out. It said huge christmas lot Moore
  23. How Do You Fix Sealed Leds?

    I purchased warm white 100 count 5MM LEDs from Paul at CDI during the pre-sale. I have one strand that has a section of lights out between 2 resistors. Paul is sending a replacement string out (I have always had great service from him!). But if this should happen again, sometime down the road - is there a way to fix these lights? The section that is out is maybe 1/4 of the strand of 100. I looked at all the "obvious things" - no broken bulbs, fuses ok, power ok, etc. Are there ways of fixing these sealed LEDs? Is it unusual that a section goes out? What has likely caused it? I'm thinking about switching my whole display to LEDs next year, and I'd like to know, before I make such a big investment.
  24. Florida Christmas Light decorators have a Facebook page. 'Like it 'to keep up-to-date with what is happening in Florida. We welcome all decorators from all over the world. Here's the link: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Florida-Planet-Christmas/233759653343533
  25. Best Lights For Blow Molds

    Had a question about which lights work best in the blow molds. I know there are different makers and that may make a difference. I am wanting to light up my Empire Reindeer and feel the lights in them now are not bright enough. I have read older posts and haven't seen anyone use these incandescent bulbs I found at Lowes and wanted to see if anyone else used them or if they were safe or better options. They are 15 W Tubular light. I picked up some chandelierbulbs but they were too big to fit in the reindeer and I don't want to modify the hole to get the chandelier bulbs in. The tubular bulbs should fit with no problem. I couldn't find a link on lowes website but here is what I am thinking about using here. Yes/No/Maybe? Something better and more energy efficient? Thanks! Here's a pic of one of my reindeer